Fursuit Heads

Index

(Check the Suit Prices & Features page to see other custom accessories available for fursuit heads)

(Generally, the only head features that will involve additional fees are resin horns, complex patterns, hats, or electronics)

(My Fursuit Heads come standard with Removable velcro bendable tongues, 2 pairs of velcro eyelids, 3D printed hand painted Follow-Me Eyes, and Double-layer neck Scruff )

Do you wear glasses?

Sorry, but we have to talk about this before we get to the fun stuff. If you wear glasses I highly **HIGHLY** recommend learning to use contact lenses before you get a fursuit head. You dont have to wear contacts all the time, in-fact, I wear glasses most of the time. Just talk to your doctor and learn how to put them in. You may think its an impossible task and your eyeball just keeps rejecting them, give it just 2 or 3 days of practice and it'll be easy as yellowcake!

Tricks for wearing Contacts: 

Your eyeball is getting puffy and pissed at the doctors office because you are poking it for an hour straight while trying to learn. Once your eye is trained you'll be able to just pop it on no problem. Always focus on your eye *in the mirror* when putting them in. When removing, I prefer to "roll" them off. I just touch the edge with my index finger and pull the contact to the side of my eye till it bunches up against my eyelid and comes off. Ez-Pz!

Contacts for Suiting:

I think its nice being able to bounce between contacts and glasses 50% of the time, but if you just need them for suiting you dont need to spend hundreds of dollars on stock. I get my contacts from 1800 contacts, and I use the Daily Total 1 brand, they are super comfy! Realistically you can get away with using them for a couple days in a row...just keep them clean!

Do you need them:

If your eyesight isn't *that* bad you might be able to get by without glasses or contacts. Remember, being in a fursuit can be disorienting especially for new suiters, especially especially if you are in a new con space. You are allready looking through buckram screen. While "follow me"-type eyes offer a surprising amount of peripheral vision, if everything's also blurry its gonna be a mess. As a comparison, I am nearsighted and have -2.50 SPH in both eyes, and I would never suit without contacts in. If you are nearsighted and anywhere close to this you need contacts. Lets say its essential if you are any worse than -1.0 to -1.5 SPH. 

Glasses and Fursuits dont mix:

There's a few reasons for this, firstly, when you are wearing your fursuit head the weight is mostly handled by the top of your head, but the bridge of your nose will also be snug inside the muzzle cavity. This is to direct your warm breath outside of the mouth and to stabilize the head on your face. I can build a fursuit base to accommodate glasses inside, but it will always sacrifice a significant amount of stability and comfort. The area resting on your nose bridge will also be pressing against your glasses the whole time. The Buckram also cant be right against your eyes because of the space needed for the glasses, so your peripheral vision will also get significantly reduced. Finally, the humidity in the suit is going to make your glasses fog up, almost all the time.

Alternatives to contacts:

If contacts lenses are still 100% out of the question Your next best option is to get some prescription goggles to use inside the suit. These can be made with anti-fog coatings. Alternatively you can pick up some Cat Crap anti-fog gel and periodically coat the inside and outside of the lenses with it. 

Lens-FollowMe Eye Integration Add~$100

For an additional fee I can work on making you a set of fursuit eyes with prescription lenses built-in. To do this, I'd recommend you get your prescription info from your doctor so you can buy a cheap pair of glasses from Zenni Optical For $10-$15. Send me the glasses and I will 3D-model a pair of Follow-me eyes (this will only work with follow-me eyes) That have lens inserts behind the buckram. The lenses should be an adequate distance from your eyes for you to see. This will not negate the fogging issue however, but it should relegate fog to only the interior side of the lenses. Apply a bit of Cat Crap antifog to the inside of the lenses periodically to negate this.  

Fursuit Heads ~$1100

My fursuit heads can best be defined as *durable* and *one of a kind*. The extra reinforcement steps I take add a little to the weight, but its distributed evenly...nothing you'll notice when its on your head. Durability is also critical for things like big ears and horns. If you want big features that stand out and stand up to wear and tear, my heads are where its at! The unique carving and fur trimming techniques I apply are a lot of extra work, but its necessary for a quality suit made to look exactly the way you want. 

The Bucket Head:

I start by either having you wear a fresh balaclava, or adding foam shims to my bust head till it matches your head dimensions, then putting a balaclava on it. My go-to head style is the "bucket head" base. It looks really goofy at first, but after a few hours of carving it'll blow your mind! I start with 1/2 inch foam to keep the overall head size down. The foam gets temporarily glued with adhesive spray to the balaclava liner. At this point if you came by the workshop for the head sizing you can leave. 

Head Sculpting:

From here I start sculpting. I do not use pre-made foam bases or expansion foam bases. Every head from me is hand carved from the ground up to fit your sona perfectly. The carving process usually takes 6-8 hours. I'll add muzzle, cheeks, jaw, brow, and carefully slice away foam with razor blades till i get everything right. Once the carving is done I usually add a final layer of 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch foam over the whole face to smooth it all out and puff it up nicely. 

Head Reinforcement: an Atomic Fursuit Feature!

A defining step I always perform on foamed pieces that sets me apart from other makers and increases durability significantly, is Linen Reinforcement. Once I finish a foam piece, be it head, or feet, I always liberally hot glue a layer of linen onto the foam. This adds a bit of weight but it makes the base incredibly tough. No amount of deformation will change the shape of the foam base now. Linen reinforcement also ensures that its *literally impossible* to remove an ear or similar appendage.These head bases have lifetime durability. In the event you needed to re-fur your head, you could just rip the fur off and the base underneath will remain totally intact. Additionally the front of the liner balaclava is cut and pulled through the eye holes and mouth hole to meet the linen reinforcement. This means the head gets completely sealed before furring even starts. Nowhere is any bare foam exposed. I install the eyes after these steps. This means that if you ever needed to replace the eyes it could be done in a similar fashion to the fur without damaging the base. 

Once all the reinforcement is done, I run stitches all the way between the inside and outside of the cranium at several points, to permanently fasten the balaclava liner to the inside of the head. I also use strips of Steel Strap in certain places to reinforce the heads even further; like ears, horn mounts, and along the bridge of noses. The steel strap gets hot glued to the base first. The linen layer gets glued overtop as it is the final reinforcement layer before furring. 

Head Furring:

I use the "DTD" system on every fursuit part I make, not just on you. When the bases are done they get covered in tape, and the patterns get drawn on. The sections get cut off and adhered to construction paper, where I cut out the negatives with appropriate margins. The templates get transferred to fur and pre-shaved. The face pieces get shaved down short, the cheeks taper up to being longer at the sides, and the back of the head is usually left long. I usually leave the ear "holes" longer for appropriate species. As tedious as it may be *I always hand-stitch my face pieces together*. This is because the seams made by sewing machines are too large and will cause little ridges in the fur topography. I can't have this, due to the way I fine-trim faces. 

The nose, forehead, and cheek pieces are sewn together, stretched tight against the base, and hot glued down. Any slack accumulated during this process is directed toward a (usually very short) seam at the temple by the edges of the eyes, and trimmed appropriately. The chin and jaw fur is usually made in a separate segment. It too gets stretched tight against the chin, and any extra slack accumulates at seam lines at the edge of the lips, where its trimmed and mated with the cheek steam. The back of the head is less critical, and is usually left as long fur. I may hand stitch or use a machine for head backing fur. 

Head Fur Fine Trimming:

The Icing on top of a premium atomic fursuit is the fur trimming, *specifically* for the face. "Beaver" length fur is, in my assumption, not short enough to properly convey the features of a face, nor is the "pre-shave" length that I trim face fur to. To get that perfect look I have to trim the fur *again* once its all attached to the face. I used to use a trimmer for this, but *any* slip up in trimmer attack angle will cause it to immediately bind in the fur and cut out a nasty wedge. The approach I stick to nowadays is just using some nice, super sharp fabric scissors. Sounds crazy right, mowing the lawn with scissors???... trust me it works! This is why I hand-stitch my face seams, because I need a nice flush surface for trimming this way. The final fur trim is almost a sculpting process itself... I prefer BigZ Fabrics Long Pile because the base-fur is super dense. I can trim the fur down to just a quarter inch or so and it still looks great. 

All the Other Parts:

So thats it then, how I make my heads from start to finish! All I do afterwards is add some finishing touches, hit it with a Shop-Vac, seal with plastic wrap, an viola! But wait... I missed a ton! Don't worry, just scroll down to see my fabrication methods for Ears and Horns, Hair and Neck Scruff, Eyes and Eyelids, Noses, Mouths Teeth and Tongues, and more! I'll also go over all the different options available to you for each category!

Softbacks ~$1100

These are mostly the same as "bucket head" type fursuit heads, except the back of the head has no foam on it. I only need your head dimensions to build a softback style fursuit head for you. 

The benefits of a softback head are:

• The head looks a little slimmer since there's no 1/2 inch foam in the back

• You'll be able to feel "Head skritches" much better, if thats your thing;D

• You'll be able to hear a bit better and may not be as hot

• Fits in luggage better

The drawbacks of softback heads are:

• You usually cannot have big ears or horns with a softback as there's no rigid mounting points. 

  • • I can however engineer together padded scaffolding inside the head for mounting these to for additional fees: Add ~$150

• Most of the Weight is in the front, this puts more pressure against the bridge of your nose. Very bad for if you are wearing glasses

• Less compatible with really big Toony eyes

• Elastic may wear out over time

Instead of the Liner being made from a balaclava sewn into the foam, a softback head will have a liner made of fleece attached to the fur of the back and sides of your head. 3 Elastic straps from the sides and top of the face come together at the back of the head and are riveted to the liner and fur in the back. 

Half-Masks ~$800

Want all the comfort of a ballroom mask combined with the looks of a fursuit head? I offer Half-masks for just that! They can be worn over the face, only revealing your chin when looking up...Or slide it up to look like an orc warlord wearing your sonas pelt!...ok thats a little morbid...

Great for situations where you want to use your mouth...whatever those could be

All the options available for regular heads can be added to Half-Masks! They are basically "softback" fursuit heads without a jaw, but optimized for this configuration.

• Add double-layered neck scruff (same as on my normal heads) Add~$100

Ears and Horns

Some of these components may come with surcharges:

• Very Large Ears Add~$60

• Regular Resin Horns Add~$80

• Large Resin Horns Add~$120

• Large Plush Horns Add~$60

• Removable Thread-in Horns Add~$90

Remember, for large ears and most types of horns they will only work on regular "Bucket-Head" bases. I can make them work on Soft-Backs and Half-Masks for an additional $150 but it will always be sub-optimal compared to a bucket-head. 

XL Ears:

I add ears with 1/2 inch or 1 inch foam, and 1/2 inch foam folds over the ear edges. I can make really big ears. The ears, along with any other large protrusions, usually get reinforced with strips of bent steel strap to maintain a shape. I typically cut 90 degree angles at the centerlines of ears to help with the concavity. Adding curves to this center-cut allows the ears to be contoured along 2 axes at once. I may also use steel strap along sections of the ear to maintain its concavity and get a smoother shape. 

(may have additional charges for 3D printed or hand-carved ear piercings, usually minimal ~$30 per)

Plush Horns:

I can make horns that are plush. They are carved from standard fursuit urethane foam, bonded to the head base with linen, and finished with stitched fleece or minky. They look good and are nice and squishy, but dont have the shine or detail of resin horns. For long plush horns I may use steel strap or wire interiors to help maintain the shape. Long plush horns have a surcharge. 

Resin Horns:

I can also make horns that are hard Resin. To save on weight, the horns are not solid resin. Instead I carve your horns with sections of High density polystyrene (HDPE), a rigid foam. I then sand to smoothness, and coat with polyurethane. They are then fiberglassed, sanded, top-coated, and painted. This results in a shiny tough horn that looks real but isnt too heavy. Both Large and Small Resin horns come with a surcharge. 

Thread-In Horns:

If you want both kinds of horns I also offer Thread-in Horns. For thread-in horns there is an $80 surcharge ontop of the cost of each type of horn (the only horns that dont cost extra are regular size plush). For thread-in horns, your fursuit head will have a sort of "Steel tiara" embedded under the reinforcement layers, with two bolts protruding from it. The bases of your horns will have deep thread sockets fixed in hardened resin. The bolts will be shimmed with padding such that a tight fit has the horns facing the right direction. They will thread onto your fursuit head in much the same way as a pool-cue. 

(The same technique can be applied for other features and accessories you want on your head. Just ask during your inquiry with me!)

Hair and Neck Scruff

My heads typically come with big poofy hair (loosely stuffed with polyfil) and poofy double-sided neck scruff. Both the head hair and scruff is usually left as full-length long-pile fur. 

Head Hair:

If you want long hair in the front or back i'll provide it at no additional charge, just be aware that it adds to the weight. Head hair is also a great place to get air-brushing done for no additional fees. The head hair gets loosely stuffed with polyfil and hand-stitched permanently to the head. If you want the hair to be removable for whatever reason, let me know and I will add a fastening system for additional fees Add~$80

Neck Scruff:

Wearing neck bandanas with your fursuit head has always seemed suboptimal to me. I like to build my heads with plenty of neck scruff to cover your shoulders and back sufficiently. My Neck Scruff is DOUBLE LAYERED, meaning both the inside and outside face of the scruff is fur. No fur backing is visible anywhere on your head. If this is something you don't want let me know and I will design it to your specifications. 

The neck scruff gets permanently hand-stitched to the edge of your heads neck-hole. The scruff is made to form a cone shape around your shoulders so it doesn't stick up in the back. In an effort to ease entry and exit from my heads, I always put a 6 inch slit in the back of the head itself. This needs to pull apart when getting in and out, so the scruff is also split at the same spot. The scruff is still attached at the outside edge however. None of this is noticeable or visible when you are wearing the head.

Eyes and Eyelids

My go-to choice is the "Follow-me"  eye type. This is the most common seen in the fandom today and for good reason. Incase you want something different, below details the benefits of each:

• 3D printed Follow-Me eyes:  These are usually your best option. Most durable. They get painted after. The eyes are recessed with edges that extend an inch or two. These give you the best peripheral vision since the pupils you see through are *right* in-front of your actual eyes. They are called "Follow-me eyes" because with an even coat of paint the pupils appear to always be looking at you due to them being recessed. 

• EVA foam Follow-Me eyes: An inferior method to 3D printing but may be applicable in some instances

• Old-School Eyes: These are basically just flat foam eyes. They sit an inch or two away from your eyes and as such the peripheral vision is poor. Uses the same painted buckram pupils as in Follow-me's. These are really only seen in legacy fursuits, but there might be specific applications where its needed. 

• Realistic Duct-Vision Eyes: If you are going for a realistic Non-toony style this is what you want. Common with Sergals. I will purchase glass eyes from a vendor according to your selection. Realistic eyes use "duct vision" . A small section of black mesh is positioned on the inside edge of the glass eyes to see through. This offers very poor eyesight. (These are commonly used in tandem with Resin/3D printed bases and moving jaws). Realistic duct vision eyes will cost an additional ~$60

• Kemono Eyes: These are more common in japan. The typical method is to use large 6 inch googly-eyes and cut out the eye shapes from that. Structurally they are similar to Follow-Me eyes, but with the addition of the transparent plastic dome over the outside edge. This adds real reflections to the eyes for a nice effect. Better with really big Follow-me's. (The common googly-eye plastic used is regular PET pop bottle plastic. It scratches easy. I recently built a vacuformer and can now make custom dome shapes using a special PET Type G plastic that is more resilient to scratches. This is what I use in protogen visors) The major drawback of Kemono eyes is that they can fog up on the inside from your breath and you have no way to wipe them, and the glare effect goes both ways so you may have to deal with annoying reflections on the inside. I can make your fursuit head with kemono eyes for an additional ~$40

If you want me to make a new 3D model per your specifications:

• I can model a pair of 3D printed eyes to be the exact shape you want:  Add~$50

• Lens-FollowMe Eyes (see "do you wear Glasses?" section):  Add~$100

(I have the rights to use any of these custom eye models on other suits after you)

Eye Painting:

After 3D printing your eye shells (the sclera), I will hand-paint your iris/pupils. This is done with acrylic paint on transparent buckram to desired thickness. Any degree of complexity is fine and will not involve a surcharge. I will also add paint to the 3D printed sclera to make the colors more uniform and to fill voids. You can have any color or complexity in your sclera as well for no additional charge. Once finished the buckram gets glued to the rear of the printed eyes. 

Eye Lining:

Your eyes are then stuffed into the reinforced head base and glued in permanently. The lower eyelid is edged with a thin strip of black EVA foam or fake leather. The top of the eye is edged with a cut section of the black soft"loop"-side of velcro. If there are any eyelashes they are usually made from this. Glue marks are again touched up with black or white acrylic paint as needed.

Eye-Lids:

Your fursuit head comes with 2 free pairs of velcro eyelids. These attach to the top edge of loop velcro on the eyes. One pair is thinner, and the other thicker. You can mix and match and put at any angle you want unlike with magnetic eyelids. They are also much better at staying in place than magnetic eyelids. No amount of head shaking will make them come off. You have 2 options for the outside face, no charge for either:

• Black or White EVA foam facing out: Can be painted to your desired color, or glittered

• Trimmed fur or Minky: Preferably from your main fur color or a close match. Trimmed very short

Noses

Noses attach under the Linen reinforcement layer. Depending on your species I have several options for you:

• Fleece or Minky Noses: Soft, Typically non-pickable. Applicable to most species

• Fake Leather Noses: Best for canines, raccoons, and other wet-nose species. Non-pickable only

• Silicone Pickable Nose: Made with my own custom mold. Best for Wet-Nose Species. I can dye the silicone any color. The silicone is cast into a layer of burlap which gets permanently stitched to the head. Add~$40

• Custom Silicone Nose: I can make a new nose mold custom to your specifications. (I reserve the right to use the mold in future suits) Add~$100

Nose Piercings:

I can use a few methods to make different types of nose piercings for you:

• 3D printed and painted (Works with any nose type) Add~$20

• Real steel (best for septums and big rings. (Works best with silicone noses. Can be removed. slides into silicone just like a real piercing. Be careful as frequent yanking/removal may tear the nose) Add~$30

Mouth, Teeth, and Tongues

Mouths are usually lined with pink fleece (other colors per your sonas specs), which goes back to meet with the head liner. When wearing your head, your nose should fit snugly into the top of a triangular recess, such that your breath all exhales from the fursuit mouth. I usually use black minky or black fake leather to add thin lips right on the edge of the teeth. 

Teeth:

Maws. Maws are cool. I like making big teeth and I have a few options for you:

• Fleece or Minky Teeth: These are a good go-to. I cut out individual sections of fabric to hand-stitch into canine cones and molar blocks. They are stuffed with a bit of poly-fil, glued to the base, then the gum-liner is glued into the mouth with designated holes cut for the teeth. These are best for canines and most mammal species. Gaps are left at the bottom molars usually to allow your breath to leave better. 

• 3D printed and painted teeth: These dont look quite as toony as stuffed teeth but they are just as valid for mammal species. They are also *Preferred* for species like sharks or sergals that have a lot of little teeth poking through. The same gum-liner technique is usually employed over these too; it give the illusion that the teeth are poking through the gums. 

Tongues:

My tongues are usually made from 1/2 inch foam and sewn together with pink minky or fleece. Let me know if your sonas tongue is a different color. I add a strip of steel strap to the cores of my tongues to make them bendable. My tongues all attach to the lower mouth with matching velcro and can be positioned at varying lengths or shapes. (Be aware that breathing is made harder with tongues in, as they block the front airgap between the teeth). 

• Tongues can be made to any length/size for no additional charge

• A second tongue is ~$30

• I can add fleece drool to a tongue for ~$20

Hats and Head Accessories

I can make hats or other head accessories for additional fees. These can be made compatible with ears and horns via holes and cutaways. For ears, the hat should be able to slip right over the head. For horns you may need to have purchased Removable Thread-in Horns to first put the hat on, then thread in the horns overtop. Hats may or may not get fastened into place with velcro or other methods. 

• I can offer accessories like captain hats made with fake leather for ~$200

• For other custom head accessories including electronics, contact me via my Telegram or Twitter 

Resin/3D Printed Fursuit Heads ~$1100

(These are the only type of Fursuit Heads compatible with moving Jaws)

Resin bases (or 3D printed bases) are hard shells instead of the usual foam carving. They attach to your head in almost the same way as Softbacks. They are not squishy like all other head bases. The fur attaches directly to the resin or printed shell. The inside of the shell gets lined with a bit of padding and fleece finishing to make the fitment better. The only instance in which I would recommend a 3D printed/ Resin base is if you really want a moving Jaw. There are many suitable bases to print online at Thingiverse. If you do not find an adequate base on thingiverse I can model a custom one for you for a fee. 

3D printed/ Resin Base Pricing:

• 3D printed/Resin base Fursuit head with Moving Jaw (from existing thingiverse model) ~$800

  • Custom modeled 3D printed base Add~$300 (I reserve the right to use this model in future fursuits)

• 3D printed/Resin base Fursuit head with moving Jaw(you allready have the base) ~$750

• If you just need me to print a free base from thingiverse for you: ~$100 (Depending on the terms of the original maker I may ask you to get in contact with them and pay some amount before paying me for the print and prep. 

Future Resin Heads:

If I end up modeling enough custom shells on my own I may switch from 3D printing them to making them from resin. In this scenario I would make silicone negatives of my 3D printed shells. This will allow me to make much more durable fiberglass bases at a much faster speed. The cost for resin shell Fursuit heads will be the same as 3D printed shell fursuit heads. 

Moving Jaws

(Only applicable if you buy a resin/3D Printed shell head)

Moving fursuit jaws articulate when you talk or open your mouth. They only work with Resin or 3D printed shells because you need rigid mount points to bolt the jaw hinges to. Attempting to make a moving jaw in a foam bucket-head or softback head is futile. The foam will just flex when you talk. You can get some movement for exaggerated expressions, but a lot of other design parameters of the head are sacrificed to make the moving jaw *half* work. 

If set up in a resin/3D printed head the moving jaw works flawlessly. small mouth movements and regular talking will translate well into fursuit jaw articulation. The Pivot point for the jaw is ideally close to or directly anterior of your ears. This is close to where it is on our actual jaw and gives maximum shell deflection. If you commission a Shell moving jaw head I will appropriately pad the jaw and reinforce the hinges so they dont get bent over years of use. The jaw will be held shut normally with light duty elastic strap riveted on either side of the mouths edges. Opening your jaw or talking will extend the elastic.