Bodysuits

Index

(Both Plantigrade and Digitigrade BodySuits require a Duct Tape Dummy (DTD). Refer to the bottom of the Sale Policies for more information on DTD's)

Bodysuit Design and Features

DTD Preparation:

Bodysuits are usually the final and most expensive part of a fursuit that an aspiring furry will commission. After completing your DTD and drawing on your pattern, the sections are cut and transferred directly to fur. There are a few modifications I make to someone's Raw DTD for better fitment. I extend the armpit width by about 3 inches with wedges in the obliques and arms, and add wedges to widen the diameters of the wrist and leg holes by 2 and 3 inches. I also extend the length of the arms by 3 inches and the legs by 4 inches so there's no gap when bending elbows and knees. 

Sewing Techniques:

Bodysuits get sewn together with short width straight stitching . Small Details either get hand-stitched or air-brushed on. Seam Nodes (regions where 3 or 4 seams meet) are hot glued and pressed with fleece pucks to prevent seams popping. Hand-stitched details are usually hot glued afterwards and pressed with fleece to reinforce into a tough patch. 

I usually prefer to hand-stitch small details instead of air-brushing. Air brushing fades and the edges are less defined than a stitch. Air brushing is usually reserved for gradients(eg Abdominal muscle shading) or large random patterns. 

Zippers:

My bodysuits have front zippers for entry. You can choose between a heavy duty 28 inch zipper or a 26 inch hidden zipper. Zipper colors will always be matched to chest/belly color. The heavy duty zippers are more visible than hidden zippers. I can leave a strip of longer fur down the middle of your chest on either side of the zipper to help hide it if this is a big concern for you. Be aware that getting fur stuck in the zipper is more common if you opt for this strip. My body suits also come standard with 9 inch matched color hidden zipper at your wrists down the line of your thumb. This assists in getting your hands through the arms. You can opt-out of this if desired and I will widen the wrists instead. All zippers are double-stitched to the bodysuit. 

Reinforcement:

I also reinforce all the edges of your body suit with 1 inch nylon strapping to prevent stretching. This includes your neck hole, arm holes, tail hole, leg holes, and any other necessary holes like wing mounts. I use Z-stitching to sew on the strips. The neck hole nylon strapping is fitted with velcro on the ends (hooks facing out) as a way to lock the collar together when hanging the suit up. 

Shaving:

I usually pre-shave bodysuits before sewing them together. The typical fur length I go for is: short in the belly, short in the obliques, short in the back, and long at the top of the chest. Crotch fur can optionally be left long in the front, also to hide zippers. Shoulders are left slightly longer, biceps are short, and forearms slowly taper up to being longer at the ends. The outside faces of the legs (being knees and hips) are usually left long, while the inner thighs between the legs and butt is short. If a plantigrade suit, the shins are short and slowly get longer and flares out toward the feet. 

Tails:

For smaller tails/ tails with belt loops, the tail hole will usually just be a slit reinforced with nylon strapping. For larger tails an actual circle will get cut out of the back of the suit for fitting the kidney belt through. This larger hole will also get reinforced with nylon strap. 

SPH's

If you need SPH's (strategically placed holes) on your suit please mention it during your inquiry. I can make your chest zipper stop right below the belly button and have a second invisible zipper start there and run around back to your where your tail starts. These are almost never visible, especially if you have crotch fluff, and the back zippers are always hidden by your tail. 

(Optional fleece pockets for a small fee)

Plantigrade Bodysuits ~$1100

These are more comfortable to wear but less impressive than a digitigrade suit. A Plantigrade suit will require a DTD down to your ankles. Everything else about plantigrade suits has been covered in the above Design and Features section. 

(Protogen bodysuits will be just like a plantigrade suit except for the following: legs end right above the knees and every area not visible at a joint will be shaved short)

Digitigrade Bodysuits ~$1400

A digitigrade bodysuit is the go-to style of fursuit for those who want to look really good and roll heads. This requires some additional steps and has some extra design parameters:

Before doing your DTD, I need to carve the foam padding according to your specifications. A slim digi just has knee pads in the body suit. A thick digi has knee pads and butt pads in the body suit. Slim digi's are my most common and preferred style to make, but I can make either for the same price. I can also make breast padding or muscle padding for additional fees. Once I finish carving the foam, I can either mail it to you, or use it directly if you are coming to my workshop. I will first tape this padding directly to you, square and even, before wrapping you with suran wrap and doing the rest of the DTD. If you are being mailed the padding you'll need your assistant to tape the padding on, being very liberal with the duct tape, then finish the DTD in the same manor. You'll need to then mail me your DTD *ALONG WITH RETURNING THE PADDING*. 

(Remember, for my style of digi-suit, you only need the DTD to reach the knees over the knee pad. Your digi feet will extend all the way up to the knees to reach it)

When I have both the DTD and pads back in my hands I can start working on your digi-suit. The raw foam pads you were sent will get finished with sewn-on minky or fleece. The outside faces will have strips of velcro (the hook side) meant to match up with locations on the bodysuit where the soft, loop side of the velcro will be sewn. You can easily remove your padding from the suit as needed. Give the padding a few spritzes with fursuit spray when doing the rest of the suit. Don't attempt to machine-wash your padding as its probably too big for the washer.